With pleats as the focus of the exploration, we typically think of stiff structured materials. However, in this design the ability to create the textile on the knitting machine allowed the pleats to be engineered into the fabric while creating a comfortable textile. The customer was looking for a unique and flattering design that would be comfortable to wear and in black or a dark color. To give the dress additional aesthetic interest and greater comfort, the black cotton yarn was plated with a navy-colored polyester/spandex yarn. The color change gave the opportunity for the ridges of the pleats to be more pronounced and accentuated the dimensionality of the textile. In order to create a more flattering aesthetic the pleats were flattened around the midriff and pronounced in the top of the bodice and main portion of the skirt.

The purpose of this design was to look at the cultural heritage of the designer and create a dress that was rooted in traditional technique through the lens of current technological innovations. The challenge was to use the traditional Swedish Blackwork and cross stitch embroideries as an inspiration and starting point in the design and then create a knitted textile that has the appearance of cross stitch while being digitally knitted. Each motif was carefully evaluated and calculated to fit the width and height of its intended placement. The design was carefully planned to give a personal history aspect as well as a cultural history of the wearer of the dress. The technical challenges were found in the textural application of the stitches as well as the importance of mathematical calculations in combination with motif designs to create a seamless look in a seamed design.

The dress was knitted in a pink almost magenta color and two tones of orange mixed together.  The two tones or orange knitting together to give a bit of a heathered look often found in sportswear such as grey t-shirts. The pink utilized two ends of pink to create a solid pink. Initially the design was intended to be a wrap dress, but while testing the flare in the skirt the tiered skirt approach was determined to give a more luxurious feel to the garment. The raglan version of the sleeves added the feel of comfort and a nod to the look of athleisure through the active wear striping which was mixed around the bottom of the sleeve with the traditional plaid pattern. Dress was programmed on a M1 Plus software and knitted on a Stoll ADF- 3 machine using silk yarn.